Badmotivator XB1 American Oak Ex-Bourbon Barrel Char 1

Swelling the Wood: Fill the barrel with hot tap water to swell the wood and ensure a tight seal, preventing leaks. Leave the water in for at least overnight.

If the Face is Wet: If, after soaking overnight, you see any moisture on the face, let it sit for another 24 hours. We want the wood to fully hydrate and swell before filling the barrel with spirits. Used oak seems to be especially prone to shrinkage and may need more time to hydrate. Sometimes, multiple treatments with warm water are needed to fully hydrate the barrel and seal micro leaks. The wood will continue absorbing liquid for about four weeks.

Draining the Water: After soaking, drain the water. It’s normal to see some black char come out. Gently shake the barrel outdoors or over a sink to remove any remaining water.

Filling with Spirits: Once the barrel is prepped, fill it with your spirits and seal it with the bung.

Aging Beer and Wine: Ensure fermentation is fully complete before sealing the barrel. If refermentation is possible, use a #5 stopper and airlock to allow gases to escape. Once safe, replace the airlock with the bung for aging.

Don't Store in the Bag: To prevent microbial growth, always store the barrel outside of the bag. Instead, fill the barrel with water to keep it hydrated and sealed.

Keep the Barrel Filled When Not in Use: If the barrel is not actively aging, it should be filled with water. This prevents the wood from drying out, which can lead to shrinkage, warping, and leaks. Regularly check water levels and refill as needed to maintain a tight seal.

Headspace: Leave about 5% headspace (approximately 1 inch below the bung) when filling with spirits to allow for expansion with temperature changes.

Secure the Bung: After filling, firmly tap the bung with a mallet to ensure a secure seal.

Long-Term Storage: For storage longer than a few weeks, use a solution of potassium metabisulfite and citric acid in the water to prevent spoilage.

To remove a bung, follow these steps: First, stand the barrel upright. Next, open the spigot. Then, with a hammer, give the side of the bung hard strikes, alternating directions of the blows. While doing this, try pulling it out between blows. Be patient; it might take 10 or even 20 firm back-and-forth strikes to loosen it. With some persistence, you'll get it!

Here is a video demonstrating the technique with a wooden mallet.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Ve23Dm1888M

To insert and seat a bung, follow these steps: Gently place it into the bunghole, and then tap it using your tool. Remember, you don't need to pound it with excessive force; a few firm taps should suffice. Avoid hitting it too hard, as this could potentially shift the barrel head inside the can. The bung seals by swelling within the bunghole, not just from hammering. A snug fit is typically all you need.

If you've removed a wet bung and want to reseal the barrel, opt for a dry bung if available.

There are a lot of possibilities here.

1. If you see evidence of a past leak, such as a dried stain on the barrel head, but no liquid, don’t freak. It’s likely that the barrel experienced an environmental change, a small amount of liquid escaped, dried, and the leak stopped. In my experience about a third of my older barrels did this, sometimes many times, and I still have plenty of liquid in the barrel. I view this as normal and cool. It’s just barrel candy. My more recent barrels don’t seem to do this but it wouldn’t bother me if they did.
   
   
2. If you notice a few drops of liquid outside the barrel, don’t panic just yet. First, check if there’s pressure inside the barrel, as that could be causing the leak. If there’s no pressure, place something under the barrel to catch any liquid in case it worsens, making cleanup easier, then walk away for a day or two. It may never happen again.
   
   
3. If there is an alarming amount of liquid actually dripping off of the barrel, you should totally freak out now. Flip the barrel upright. Get in touch with me. We’ll work something out.

As barrels go through temperature changes, spirits expand and contract, which may cause pressure or a vacuum to develop. This is a normal part of the aging process for barrels. I often get questions in the spring when barrels warm up. It’s common to see a few small leaks, or even puddles, as the temperature and pressure change. To address this, you can place the barrel upright and release the pressure through the spigot. Barrels stored in more extreme environments will need a larger headspace to accommodate the significant expansion and contraction inside the barrel. You can also put something under the barrel to collect the drips. It should stop within a few days.

If you’re aging fermented beverages like wine, beer, cider, mead, or similar, it’s not uncommon for fermentation to restart after racking into the barrel. If this happens, place the barrel upright and replace the bung with an airlock and stopper. Once fermentation activity stops, you can return the barrel to its side to continue aging. I’ve seen quite a few pressure buildups caused by secondary fermentation in the barrel.

A general rule in distilling is to leave around 5% headspace in the barrel. This space allows the spirit to expand and contract with seasonal changes. A good guideline is to fill the barrel to about 1 inch (25mm) below the bung when the barrel is upright, ensures the right amount of headspace.

If you’ve overfilled the barrel, there’s a simple solution. Open the spigot occasionally to release excess pressure, especially during rapid temperature changes, like the shift from winter to spring. This helps keep the barrel sealed properly. Small leaks that occur during weather transitions are often caused by internal pressure changes.

For more on this, check out Alan Bishop's video on barrel aging in changing environments:  The effects of heat and pressure on barrels

When aging fermented beverages, the process is a bit different. It’s generally advised to keep the barrel full to reduce oxidation, and expect some minor leakage as the barrel cycles through natural changes. These beverages are typically aged in a stable environment to prevent excessive loss.

If there's a risk of secondary fermentation, it’s best to turn the barrel upright and attach an airlock and stopper until all fermentation has stopped. This could take up to a month, depending on the sugar content and yeast or microbes involved.

I don’t know. I generally have not rotated my barrels, and I have no complaints about their performance. The exception is that occasionally a small leak will present itself on the lower part of the head, and I’ll just rotate it to the top and walk away. Works for me.

To prevent your barrel staves from shrinking, keep it hydrated when not in use. Right after emptying, rinse it thoroughly, sanitize it, and store it filled with either a barrel preservative solution or a neutral spirit.

Prepare the Solution: Dissolve 3.5 grams of potassium metabisulfite or 3.5 crushed Campden tablets in 2 gallons (7.6 liters) of distilled water. Stir until fully dissolved.

Adjust pH: Gradually add citric acid (1 gram at a time) and use a pH meter or test strips to ensure the pH is below 3.4.

Add Solution: Pour the prepared solution into the barrel and let it sit until you're ready to use the barrel. Afterward, empty the barrel and rinse it at least twice to remove all sulfur residue. The barrel should have a clean, almost sweet odor.

Check SO2 Levels: Use a test kit to monitor the free SO2 level every couple of months to maintain a level above 250 ppm. If using our kit, the solution will last about 6 months before needing a new batch.

Pre-Mixed Option: For convenience, we offer a pre-measured barrel preservative on our website for 2 gallons of water.

Safety: Always wear protective gloves and eyewear, and work in a well-ventilated area.

These barrels are designed to:
a) work for years and years, and
b) work slowly, as they should.

These are NOT 1-month barrels. Fill it up, put it away, and check on it every once in a while. Try a little taste now and then. Maybe you just really want to drink it after four months, or eight. That’s fine, but there’s something you oughta know before you blow the whistle. After a year, a huge amount of the young-spirit character is gone and the spirit has gained a beautiful color and some sweetness. It’s pretty good after a year. But it’s way better after two, and awesome at four. That’s all I can tell you from personal experience.

Inspect for Leaks:Fill the barrel with water to check for leaks. If it leaks, water soaking may swell the wood to seal it.

Clean and Sanitize:If the barrel is new or has been used previously, it's crucial to clean and sanitize it without damaging the wood's character. Use a solution like potassium metabisulfite and citric acid for wine barrels, or a brewery-approved sanitizer for beer.

Temperature:Ensure the beer or wine is at a stable, appropriate temperature before barrel-aging.

Filling:Fill the barrel to avoid excess oxygen space, which can lead to oxidation. Minimize headspace.

Environment:Keep the barrel in a cool, dark place with stable temperature and humidity. Extreme changes can affect the barrel and the liquid inside.

Monitor:Check periodically for leaks, spoilage, and to assess the aging process. Tasting occasionally can help decide when it has reached the desired profile.

Transferring:Once the aging process is complete, transfer the beer or wine to bottles or another container for further maturation or consumption.

Cleaning and Storage:Clean the barrel thoroughly after emptying. Store properly to prevent drying out and microbial growth, considering filling with a storage solution if not in use immediately.

Oxygen Exposure:Minimize oxygen exposure during transfers to prevent oxidation.

Duration:The time for aging can vary greatly, from a few months to over a year, depending on the desired outcome.

Reusing Barrels:Barrels can be reused multiple times for aging, but the imparted flavors will diminish with each use.

In the world of cooperage, terminology can sometimes be a bit fluid, and standards might vary from one maker to another. I've done my best to compile a set of definitions that reflect a general consensus in the industry, but I’m always open to learning more from those with deeper knowledge.

Here’s how I currently define these key terms:

Toast: This is the process where the staves of the barrel are heated over a griddle at 400°F. The duration of this process determines the level of toast:

• Light Toast: 20 minutes

• Medium Toast: 30 minutes

• Medium-Plus Toast: 40 minutes

• Heavy Toast: 50 minutes

Char: Charring involves a more intense heat treatment. If a barrel is charred, the inside of the barrel head is exposed to open flame. The duration of this exposure determines the char level:

• Char 1: 10 seconds, a light charring

• Char 2: 20 seconds, a medium charring

• Char 3: 30 seconds, a medium-heavy charring

• Char 4: 40 seconds, a heavy charring

After charring, the barrel is quickly doused with water to quench the flames and lock in the charred layer.

Please note that these definitions are based on my current understanding and practices, and I'm always eager to refine them further with input from those in the know.

The toast and char levels of a barrel have a significant impact on the final flavor profile of a spirit. Here are some general suggestions based on different toasting and charring combinations:

Light Toast, Char 1 Barrel:

• Gin: A light toast with minimal char is great for gin, which benefits from subtle flavor enhancements that don't overshadow its botanicals.

• White Rum: This combination will add a bit of complexity without making the rum too heavy or oaky.

• Tequila: This would add a subtle depth to silver tequila-style spirits if you're interested in aging it for a short period.

Medium Toast, Char 2 Barrel:

• Bourbon Whiskey: A medium toast with a #2 char provides a balanced profile, adding a touch of caramel and vanilla flavors.

• Rye Whiskey: This brings out the floral notes in rye whiskey while balancing it with some sweeter undertones.

• Apple Brandy: This combo complements the fruitiness of the brandy.

Medium-Plus Toast, Char 3 Barrel:

• Scotch: A deeper toast and more significant char contribute complexity to Scotch-style whiskies.

• Aged Rum: This combo can give the rum more depth and a more balanced profile.

• Mezcal: For those interested in aging Mezcal-style spirits, a medium-plus toast and #3 char can add a lot of intrigue without overwhelming the spirit's natural smokiness.

Heavy Toast, Char 4 Barrel:

• Dark Rums: A heavy toast with a high char level is excellent for producing a rich, deeply flavored rum.

• Bold Bourbons: For a bourbon with robust flavors, a heavy toast and #4 char can bring out dark chocolate, coffee, and smoky notes.

• Armagnac: This would add substantial body and complexity to a grape-based spirit.

Remember, these are just suggestions, and the actual outcome can vary based on many factors like the original spirit, aging time, and environmental conditions. Feel free to experiment and find what suits your personal taste best!

The best barrel entry proof depends on the type of spirit you're aging and the final flavor profile you're aiming for. Here's a general guide:

• Whiskey/Bourbon: Typically, entry proof ranges between 100-125 proof (50-62.5% ABV). Lower entry proof can create a sweeter, more mellow flavor, while higher proof tends to pull more intense flavors from the wood, including spices and tannins.
• Rum: Entry proof for rum often falls between 110-140 proof (55-70% ABV). Higher proof enhances the extraction of bold flavors like caramel and vanilla, while lower proof can give a sweeter, more rounded character.
• Brandy/Cognac: Brandy is usually entered at around 110-130 proof (55-65% ABV). Lower proofs emphasize fruity and floral notes, while higher proofs extract more oak characteristics.
• Tequila: Common entry proof for tequila ranges from 80-120 proof (40-60% ABV). A lower proof helps retain the natural agave flavors, while higher proofs bring out more of the wood's influence.

Ultimately, the best entry proof depends on personal taste. A lower proof tends to preserve more of the original spirit’s flavors, while higher proof enhances the interaction with the wood. You may want to experiment with different proofs to find what works best for your specific spirit and aging goals.

These barrels are ideal for aging spirits like whiskey, rum, tequila, brandy, and cocktails. You can also experiment with aging beer, wine, vinegar, coffee, tea, or even hot sauce. The options are almost endless.

Yes. During the second use, the barrel will give less wood character (sugars, flavors, color) to the spirit than the first use did, and there will be less adsorption of large molecules by the char, but the spirit will still mature with time. The higher-volatility molecules will still dissipate, and the spirit will still experience slow oxygenation. There will still be esterification and other beneficial chemical reactions. Many commercial spirits are aged exclusively in second-use wood. However, commercial second-use barrels are often reconditioned on the inside (scraped, re-toasted, re-charred etc.) and while in theory this could be done with a Badmotivator Barrel I can offer no assurance that this would work for us. I have never removed a head, reconditioned it, and used it again.

Sure. Maybe you’re on a second use, and you want to add a little fresh wood inside to amplify that new oak character. (If you are adding oak, use only properly seasoned wood!) Maybe you want to add a non-oak wood. Maybe you have some kind of unusual fetish. I don’t judge. Go for it. It’s your barrel, weirdo.

Oh man, I really hope this never happens to you. Unfortunately, I’ve seen it happen to a small number of customers. While the chances are incredibly small, there is a slight risk this could happen. Occasionally, I’ve seen the insert split during the initial swelling of the barrel. When that happens, I just discard it.

As I continue to refine the barrel-making process, my goal is to eliminate this completely. While I can’t replace or compensate for any spirit lost due to an issue like this, I’d be happy to replace the barrel. Just send me an email with a picture of the failed barrel head, including the serial number, and I’ll send you a new one of your choice.

With proper care, our barrels can last for many years. Depending on usage and maintenance, 15+ years is achievable. Some of the earliest Badmotivator Barrels are now over 10 years old and still aging beautifully.

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